Turkey 2011, Days 1-5 Istanbul

We loved Istanbul!   It was rich in history from the Greeks to the first Eastern Roman Emperors (Constantine) to the Byzantine Empire, the Ottoman Empire and finally the Turkish Republic established by Ataturk.  Wheeeww!  That's a lot of history! And, there are remnants to explore everywhere.  Roman walls surround the hold town as you drive in from the airport and glimpse the sprawling Istanbul metropolis stretching along the Bosphorus.  

Minarets pierce the sky from the various undulating hills of the city.  At night, Byzantine and Ottoman architecture is lit up and glorious.  By day, the City streets team with people as do the waterways  - The Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara.  Ferries shuttle people back and forth from the European continent to the Asian continent populated by "Constantinople".  Women in modest head scarves were more plentiful than I had imagined.  The country is becoming more conservative, although it has been 98% Muslim since the Ottoman's arrived in the 1450s.   

In the old City, our charming hotel Sari Karnak, had a rooftop terrace with front row seats of the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia and the Bosphorus, with its bridges reminiscent of San Francisco.   A significant event occurred on this lush rooftop living room. Bob proposed to Diane under the stars and glittery lights along the Bosphorus.   A memory to be cherished forever, along with the sites we saw in this fascinating City:

• Topkapi Palace.  Built when the Ottoman's arrived from the East and vanquished the Byzantine emperors.  The Palace is laid out in a series of courtyards with pavilion type buildings reminiscent of the tents of the nomadic Ottoman Turks.  While luxurious in painted tiles inside and out, furnishings are absent so the feeling is not quite palatial.  The Harem apartments, where the women, children,  Sultan, and Black Eunich guards lived were tiled apartments and courtyards.  Harem means "forbidden".   The Sultan's mother was very powerful and chose all wives for the Sultan.  Some women aspired to live in the Harem because they would be educated and have the chance to be chosen as wife. The harem was disbanded in 1908, and the women did not want to leave.
• Blue Mosque, 1616.  Built when Ottoman Empire was waning, to show power.  Seagulls swoop among the minarets, and the call to prayers flood the Sultanahmet neighborhood 5 times a day. Inside is covered with blue Iznik tiles.
• Hagia Sophia. Immense 6th century Byzantine church built by the Emperor Justinian, converted to Mosque in by sultans in 1450s.  900 year old mosaics painted over then converted to a Mosque, but not restored.
• Bosphorus Tour.  Views of the old moneyed summer houses, called yalis, wooden Ottoman architecture.  Many harbors are swanky like Sausalito.  Also, views of the Sultan's 19th century new  Dolmabahce Palace (Sultans moved here from Topkapi Palace in 1865).
• Spice Market and Grand Bazaar.  The Spice Market, built in 1660, is overflowing the Turkish Delight, spices, souvenirs, and people.   It faces the Galata Bridge and the heart of the ferry terminals port.   In the olden days, spices came fresh off of trading vessels to the nearby market for sale.
• Byzantium Palace Mosaic Museum, astonishing mosaics of mythology and animals and hunting and fishing scenes. Discovered in the 1930s and preserved by building museum around the mosaics in situ.  Thought to have been floor of colonnade leading to main palace.
• Underground Roman Cisterns (built for Justinian's palace in 529 AD). 100s of columns from all over the empire.  Very atmospheric stroll on elevated walkways above the shallow water.
• Roman Hippodrome where chariot races were held for competing religious sects, was built before Emperor Constantine.  The stadium that had been there held 100,000 people. An Egyptian obelisk has stood at one end since the 4th century AD when it was placed there by Constantine.  The obelisk dates to 1,400 B.C.  The world famous bronze horses at St. Marks cathedral in Venice were stolen during the 4th crusade from this location.

Click the images below to start slideshows for days 1-3 and 4-5.  Enjoy!

Here's a link to all our photos for this portion of the trip.  From here you can see more photos and even print the few you like.